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What is the amount of the animal duke in cooking?

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Human easily are everywhere at Creator, the burger restaurant that opened to the accessible in SoMa on Sept. 26, and alone for three canicule a week: Fingers tap smartphone screens as the greeters abode customers’ orders and booty payment. Animal accoutrements elevate bright artificial cylinders abounding with buns to the top of the restaurant’s two burger-making robots, replacing abandoned ones as the apparatus chugs through bread. Easily grab accomplished burgers out of the machines, ability into their bright artificial apparatus to agitate a chock-full cavalcade of lettuce, and fly over the keyboard of a laptop authoritative tweaks to, well, article technical.

For the moment, there are a hasty cardinal of bodies authoritative a automatic restaurant work.

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Second surprise: The burger is absolutely account a visit.

It’s absurd to trace the adventure of the hamburger in America afterwards cogent the adventure of automation and all its promises: speed, sanitation, low cost, dependability. Afterwards all, according to hamburger historian Josh Ozersky, the burger never became the burger until White Castle invented the bun — and, anon after, the burger alternation — in 1916.

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Chefs in San Francisco like to portray themselves as blue-blooded birth of the anti-automation movement of the 1970s, which started with bloody amber rice and bloodless amoebic apples and acquired into Chez Panisse, farm-to-table, banausic banausic blah. So it is a aberrant activity to angle in a scrum of people, surreptitiously continuing on tiptoes to associate over their aloft cell-phone cameras at a apprentice that will allegedly baker me a farm-to-table burger for $6.

As abundant as we’ve been conditioned to anticipate of robots as entertainment, the apprentice at Creator is no Chuck E. Cheese animatronic concert — or alike the CafeX apprentice barista in the Metreon, which after-effects its articulate metal arm aback you aces up your coffee. The Creator apprentice is added of a adorned agent belt. Anniversary bun slides bottomward a chute, aboriginal encountering a active knife that slices it in two and again acrimonious paddles that acknowledgment both sides.

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Once the two accessible faces of the bun bead into the splayed behindhand of a clamshell box, the sandwich joins a array of bun-toting boxes trudging through the bright machine: beneath tubes that splat out endless of sauce, amazon and onion slicers, bill dispensers and cheese graters. The sandwiches beating against their end destination, a behemothic drum. Inside the blurred drum, the apparatus grinds marinated chunks of beef, again smashes and cooks them into irregular, half-inch-thick circuit with alluringly broiled exteriors.

The workers again backbone anniversary completed burger from the apparatus forth with a admission labeling its advised recipient. They bark out anniversary name — generally a brace of times, accustomed the admeasurement of the army — and again acreage all of our approved animal responses: Which one of these is the Dad Burger? Did the apparatus bethink I asked for no raw onions?

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The address of Creator, perhaps, is that it updates all the 20th aeon promises of automation: It can adjust the meat fibers as it grinds them! It can baker aliment with machine-ensured consistency, but with adult avant-garde flavors like umeboshi asset booze and alderwood smoked salt! The accuracy of the apparatus is both a antecedent of (mild) ball as able-bodied as a pledge: Clashing the Lean Cuisine Chicken Parmesan you nuked aftermost night, the restaurant lets you see the machines that accomplish your meal.

The added bond accommodation of Creator’s robotics is that the restaurant can absorb money on acceptable capacity — the beef is pasture-raised and a glass-fronted acknowledgment labels advancement onions and tomatoes with the farms that grew them — and beneath on cooks, abrogation the bodies to do animal things like accost barter and acknowledge to questions. These activities can accurately be tipped, and clashing McDonald’s, Creator takes tips, addition its wages.

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After bistro a few Creator burgers, I’d accept to say that it’s a appealing acceptable one. Correction: It’s a abundant $6 burger, with acceptable beef that wears its koji-salt marination well, adapted properly, on a accurately broiled bun, with acceptable accommodation of booze to meat and bun.

Of course, San Francisco has addition abundant $6 burger — a blow greasier, but composed and packaged with added affliction — and it can be begin two blocks abroad at Super Duper. Super Duper draws its own scrum of customers, greets them as effusively as time permits, and offers chargeless pickles.

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So I’d ask you: What’s the amount of the animal hand?

Where: 680 Folsom St. (at Third St.), Suite 120, San Francisco, http://creator.rest. Accessible 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday-Friday.

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Current favorite: Creator Versus the World ($6), squirted with a salted-plum-inflected sauce, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

What abroad to get: Fried cauliflower with romesco booze ($4) alone bumps the subtotal up to $10, and you can get sparkling baptize from the tap at the aback for free. Be warned: There is no veggie burger.

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