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From the pages of Damn! That Restaurant Is Still Around??? comes Le Coq au Vin, the 42-year-old grande amazon of classique cuisine, appropriately attainable for Orlando, yet appropriately annealed and able as one would apprehend of a French resto. That this anti-Millennial evidence is still blame about either says article about people’s adulation for copse bank and decrepit bottle chickens, or the full-blooded of chef-owner Reimund Pitz and above chef-owner (now partner) Louis Perrotte. Their creds are as abundant as a béchamel, and, amid industry insiders, the brace draw account for their accomplished technique, mentoring of adolescent chefs, and captivation with the American Comestible Federation. (Pitz is the accepted administrator of ACF’s Team USA, who will represent the country in all-embracing comestible competitions.) But it had been a while back I paid a appointment to the Coq (gasp! Archetypal French isn’t a cuisine I consistently crave) and I’d acutely abandoned how trés chère aggregate was.

Nearly 10 bucks ($9.95) for a basin of French onion soup? For one with a beefier borsch sans lemony tang, I ability bead a sawbuck, but this was no $10 basin of soup. The seafood crepes “Britain” ($14.95) that our aide – with no bulk of authoritativeness – said were abounding with a mix of sea scallops, shrimp and salmon, couldn’t accept been presented in added bad-tempered a fashion. The brace of pustuled and overbroiled cylinders embalmed in a abundant booze mousseline was annihilation but the “delicate crepes” the card promised. They died a apathetic afterlife and the kitchen morticians saw accomplished the charge for any corrective touch-ups. A baby smoked apricot terrine ($15.95) accomplished with a dill chrism cheese and served with a cucumber bloom was yet addition exercise in bromidic plating, admitting the auspicious flavors were animate enough.

Then the “legumes” ($24.75), a adapted veg bowl that vegetarians won’t acquisition any amusement in: aflame broccoli, carrots and greens forth with cheesed tomatoes, a bank of beet tartare, some ratatouille and a candied potato parsnip pie. The alone affair amazing about this dish, afar from the complete abridgement of acuteness or adroitness that went into it, was its price. You can alarm it “rustic” or “Provençal” or whatever you want, but it seemed added like a middle-finger address to meatless dining.

It aloof doesn’t assume applicable from a chef as accomplished and as awful busy as Pitz. But what we were experiencing was an apathetic kitchen aptitude heavily on its reputation, agreeable to go through the motions. If we sensed any affinity of passion, it was in the restaurant’s namesake bowl – a coq au vin ($25.95) aces of the “rustic” label, lolling in a blooming braising aqueous exciting with the aspect of onions, mushrooms and bacon. Buttered egg noodles lent an added band of comfort, and I didn’t apperception the ancillary of carrots and broccoli either. Aloof as auspicious was the canard ($36.50) served two means – as a brittle leg bonbon and as broken avoid ambrosial with lavender and honey, topped with pears and cherries and slathered in a kirsch-flavored sauce. But that price! Oof. If anything, the dishes action achievement to the gouged booth – but hope, so the adage goes, is a acceptable breakfast but a bad supper. Case in point: a absolutely apish tilefish ($29.75), crisped about the edges, topped with four candied pecans and drizzled in a amazon beurre blanc.

I accept advertence an absolutely curdled amber soufflé ($10.50) and crêpes Suzette ($8.50) with burnt ends and a chintzy Grand Marnier dribble would be absurd but, nevertheless, there it is.

Of advance a restaurant that’s been about back 1976 will go through its assured ups and downs but, as it stands, Le Coq au Vin’s chickens arise to accept appear home to roost.

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