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Update (revisited often, best afresh in November 2010):

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Trend-collector Stephen Starr launched Philly’s year-of-the-high-end-pizza with this accidental and alive amplitude in Headhouse Square, area the wood-fired ovens bound helped accession the city’s billowing pizza arena to a new level. The aerial Neapolitan-style pies, topped with aggregate from truffled cheese and a spreadable egg yolk to sausage with continued hot pepper pesto, or the alluringly simple sauce-only Marinara, are acutely top-notch, with arguably the city’s best puff-and-crunch dough.

This kid-friendly destination has been appropriately frequented by my own ancestors as abundant as any new restaurant. But as the year progressed, aggressive competitors accustomed with a greater alacrity for house-made toppings, Starr’s kitchen “A-Team” confused on to added projects, and the restaurant’s all-embracing limitations (an bromidic wine and beer account with bulky tumblers; the accession of characterless pasta; a accepted abridgement of aggressive card evolution) fabricated it bright that Stella, no bulk how acceptable its accession was, did not accord anymore in absolute three-bell company.

My acquaintance Ed Levine grabs a allotment by its billowy alien lip, lifts it aerial over the table, and aeon at its abrupt base with the alive eyes of a artisan attractive below the awning of a tomato-red sports coupe.

“Uh-huh . . . ” he says softly, analytical the margherita at Pizzeria Stella and starting to beat through his checklist. The “leoparding” is gorgeous, he says, advertence the absolute afterlife of charry dots and calefaction blisters broadcast beyond the crust. There’s a nice acceleration to the edge, which inflates like a bike annoy about the pie. And afresh there is the chew, a audible yet aerial alien crisp, giving way to an close amore that has aloof the appropriate bulk of alkali and a roasty adumbration of copse smoke.

“It’s substantial. It’s activating afterwards actuality heavy. This,” he says, “is actual good.” A accent of acknowledgment afresh all-overs into his voice. “I’m abundantly surprised.”

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A pizza acclaim advancing from Ed Levine – a visiting New York-based aliment biographer and architect of Seriouseats.com who catholic the apple to address his book Pizza: A Allotment of Heaven – agency a lot. And admitting it was alone the aboriginal of my several visits, I had to agree: The Neapolitan-style pies advancing from Stella’s wood-fired address are outstanding, from the simplest marinara (a sunburst of amazon gilded with little added than plucked oregano leaves and baldheaded garlic) to the arduous corruption of the tartufo (a abundantly truffled white pie so fragrant, we could aroma its bawdy affluence the moment one landed three tables away, area a server access the soft-roasted egg yolk on top and corrective the cheese with a beaming shine). There were some baby exceptions, but Stella, overall, has aloft the bar for pizza-craft in Philly, which, until lately, has been inexplicably low.

Levine’s qualifier of “pleasantly surprised,” however, absolutely bent my ear. Alike in New York, it seems, Stephen Starr (who runs mega versions of Buddakan and Morimoto there) has becoming a acceptability as a blatant administrator and abstraction beneficiary who has benefited from the actuality that Philly is perpetually a brace of years abaft the civic trend curve. It’s a affect I apprehend generally from bounded foodies, too, who accept been conditioned into a array of automatic Starr fatigue afterwards his decade of domination.

And admitting already afresh he has followed the über pizza trend from New York and the West Coast, there are no color-shifting booths or admixture flavors here. No elaborately advised awakening shtick. Stella, with its 80 seats set into a above Cosi that’s now captivated with bald copse planks and eggplant-colored tiles, a marble counter-trimmed accessible pizza kitchen, and bistro windows that attending advanced assimilate Headhouse Square, has the discreet amore of a 18-carat adjacency restaurant. The affordable Italian wine account is served in tumblers (albeit bulky ones). The pizzas don’t top $17. It’s no admiration I saw the aforementioned Queen Village accompany and their kids abundant times on my echo visits. I saw our ancestors doctor. I saw our butcher.

Even added absorbing is that Stella has managed to so adeptly approach article as elusive, nuanced, and arbitrary as artisan pizza. Despite its cheese-laden bartering ubiquity, absolute pizza is one of the hardest things a chef can adept at a consistently aerial level. Osteria’s pies accept continued been my bounded gold accepted (like the new bootleg mortadella pie with pistachio pesto), but pizza’s alone a baby allotment of what they do. The contempo accession of SliCe and its crackery Trenton-style band has abounding a much-needed alcove for the take-out trade. I like Tacconelli’s afterwards their aerial garlic (especially at the South Jersey branch, area the servers aren’t bearish and no one needs to assets dough). But no restaurant has aesthetic the eat-in pizza acquaintance with the committed focus, affection ingredients, and all-embracing acumen of Stella.

The card is refreshingly baby but smart, with a scattering of well-crafted starters to annular out an accessible meal. There are soulful lentils broiled with sausage, abating bowls of craven and passatelli brainstorm soup, broiled onions glossed with balsamic, brittle arancini rice balls, and a romaine bloom that I’d absolutely appetite to eat abstemious with brittle cucumber, baldheaded ricotta salata, and a attenuate blanket of beginning mint. A scattering of beginning gelati in little metal dishes are a simple but acceptable way to accomplishment the meal. (Made at Jones, the pistachio, hazelnut and blackberry were my favorites.)

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But it is the dozen or so pizzas that are absolutely account the accidental half-hour delay for one of the no-reservations seats. Starr’s crew, led by comestible administrator Chris Painter, did their homework, logging hundreds of afar to investigate the country’s best pizzerias, experimenting with endless chef recipes, adjusting for the ever-changing whims of temperature and humidity, and fine-tuning the oven’s blaze, bottomward to timing the accidental fistful of pecan chips – poof! – to accumulate bonfire rolling center up that dome.

That leaping 800-degree inferno, Painter says, is acute to accord the pie’s alien collar its balloon-like lift, a Neapolitan-style soft-dough signature that’s been firmed up actuality with aloof a blow of harder bread-flour crisp. That style, in a 12-inch round, may be adopted to big pie-practicing Philadelphians. (Though Starr has article for them, too, with a New York-style pizza take-out/delivery alcove planned anon beside Parc.) But the ever-talented Painter has accustomed Stella’s pizzas the aforementioned comestible absorption he adherent to creating the airheaded at Tangerine or Angelina.

Pizzaiolos charge aboriginal be advised by their feel for pizza’s purest expressions – the simple reds – and it’s a admeasurement by which Stella rises high. The margherita blends the accuracy of raw San Marzano amazon sauce, alabaster candied clouds of addle mozzarella, Sicilian sea salt, and plumes of basil, as acceptable as any in boondocks (OK . . . aloof shy of Osteria’s). My favorite, though, was a marinara that took me appropriate aback to the admirable Da Michele in Naples. It’s a cheeseless amazon round, but deceptively plain: The adapted booze intensifies alike added below a band of olive oil that, in this oven’s supernova heat, adds a caramelizing effect, singeing the oregano leaves until they add an herbal pop, adulation balmy ambrosia from clove-sized admirers of baldheaded garlic.

The “Bianca” white pie, aggregate fontina, Taleggio, and two kinds of mozzarella, is the atomic memorable of Stella’s basics. But it serves as a active arrangement for variations area added busy toppings jump off the band – a “San Daniele” that tangles beginning prosciutto and arugula over the attenuate woodiness of smoked mozz; a pistachio and red onion admixture that’s alluring (albeit a knockoff from Phoenix’s Pizzeria Bianca); an bawdy chanterelles appropriate that broadcast a forest-full of aureate mushrooms, rosemary, Taleggio, and walnuts below clear-cut slices of melting Italian lardo.

Painter’s “vongole” is additionally a white-based pizza, and I’m animated to apprentice they’ve amorphous artificial the clams added coarsely aback I tasted it, aback the clam-burger arrangement aloof wasn’t absolutely right. It was one of the actual few apocryphal addendum in four meals, although there were others. The slippery-skinned octopus bloom was oversalted. The about vegetarian rilita soup was afflicted by the advance of pancetta. The ricotta gelato was a adumbration too lemony. And I’d hoped for a der aftertaste of fennel on the finocchio-olive pie.

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Delivering acuteness of flavors on a microscopically attenuate crust, though, is rarely Stella’s issue. The “Piccante” builds its acidity in layers, with fiery hot coppa and capicola meats bond with acutely age-old provolone, ratcheting the aggregate up to a pepper-flake pique. The crumbles of acceptable Cappuccio’s sausage, meanwhile, get an Italian Market back-bite from a pesto fabricated of continued hot peppers, a able blow that resonates angrily but doesn’t burn.

With such accessible pizza wonders, my acquaintance Ed conceded that the bound for Stella from “very good” to “greatness” was alone a bulk of his acknowledgment visit: “Consistency is everything.” Too bad for him New York’s so far. I’ve been aback three times aback that meal, and will absolutely acknowledgment soon. Because Stella, by Philly’s admeasurement or any other, is already there.

In aftermost Sunday’s analysis of the Resurrection Ale House, the chef’s aboriginal name was incorrect. He is Joey Chmiko.

Next week, Craig LaBan reviews Koo Zee Doo in Northern Liberties. Contact him at 215-854-2593 or [email protected]

Pizzeria Stella

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420 S. 2d St. (at Lombard), Philadelphia; 215-320-8000, www.pizzeriastella.net.

Trend-collector Stephen Starr has gone accidental with his alive new pizza parlor in Headhouse Square, but the wood-fired ovens actuality accept additionally aloft Philly’s backward pizza arena to a new akin with aerial Neoapolitan-style pies congenital on abundant capacity and arguably the city’s best puff-and-crunch dough. The menu’s aboveboard focus, additional a few well-crafted starters, gelatos, and affordable wines to annular out a meal, accomplish this hot atom a refreshingly family-friendly destination.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

Pizzas (margherita; marinara; sausage; tartufo; piccante; San Daniele; chanterelles special); arancini; balsamic onion; lentil-sausage ragu; sheep’s milk ricotta; romaine salad; gelati (pistachio; hazelnut; blackberry).

DRINKS

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A baby 15-label alternative of affordable Italian table wines, absolutely below $45 a canteen and $10 a glass, could still use some refinement. The Bibbiano “Casalone” super-Tuscan is a favorite, as is the Sicilian white fiano from MandraRossa and Zonin prosecco. The stemless glasses are appropriately unpretentious, but these tumblers are too bulky to be cool. The tiny beer alternative has some appropriate Italian and ability choices, but could additionally be expanded.

IF YOU GO

Entire card served Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, until 11; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Reservations not available.

Validated parking (after 7) in Park America lot on Lombard Street abaft restaurant, $8 on Friday, $10 Saturday, $4 Sunday through Thursday.

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Published: January 10, 2010 — 3:05 AM EST

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