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“First rule: Never acknowledgment the buzz on a Sunday morning,” says Peter Pastan.

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The adept restaurateur did aloof that July 8, aback agents at Two Amys a him that the basement of his accepted pizzeria a Washington National Cathedral was actuality flooded. Two anxiety of baptize became four feet, which became about six anxiety afore emergency crews were able to stop the rise, the aftereffect of a ruptured, six-inch baptize pipe. Everything in the basement — the basic kitchen, storage, office, wine account — had to be replaced. Pastan abstracts the accident hit about $500,000. He and his 50-person aggregation helped with the rehabilitation and annihilation followed by repainting, and concluded up reopening Two Amys on Sept. 24. Since then, admirers accept been bushing the place, acquisitive to reacquaint themselves with the signature pies, accepted for their big lips, nice burn and affable chewiness.

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“It looks . . . actual familiar,” I eavesdrop a woman say as she accomplish into the dining room, still a ery chicken and still dressed with ample copse tables. Other than a new attic in the pizza oven, the account on the arena attic is the aforementioned as it was pre-flood. A chump has to appointment the restrooms to see the accessible enhancement, a collage fabricated from emptied wine bottles that were bare of their labels and “cooked” in the 800-degree oven.

Regulars will apprehension changes baby and ample on the menu. Grab some pig cape if they’re offered. Two Amys aboriginal brines and simmers them till they’re tender, removes the bone, trims some fat, afresh presses the aftereffect overnight. The afterward day, the cape are breaded and absurd to a brittle aureate accompaniment and served with a arrant blooming booze — the absolute antithesis to the affluent snack. Specials accept additionally included broiled eggplant smoothed with abundant ricotta, brightened with excellent and zapped with chiles, a abundant meatless access or aggregate appetizer.

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The pizza reboots accommodate an Etna 2.0 decked out with smoked mozzarella, absurd (rather than pureed) eggplant, ache basics and parsley, and a Pozzuoli carpeted with cottony broiled peppers, fontina and housemade pork sausage (replacing the aboriginal meatballs). Sassiest of all is the puttanesca, whose toppings of broiled rapini, anchovy, garlic and hot peppers are the aftertaste agnate of a adenoids blast.

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Pastan no best owns Obelisk, the long-running Italian restaurant in Dupont Circle, or Etto, a adolescent pizza-and-small plates purveyor on 14th Street NW. So your affairs of seeing him at Two Amys are good. Yes, that’s the buyer in the kitchen some nights.

Introduced in 2001, the admired pizzeria has additionally added steak to its repertoire, featuring cuts from dairy beasts that the restaurant dry ages as continued as 100 days. The meat, its apparent crisped by the pizza oven, will amuse carnivores who don’t apperception chewing; Pastan says he brand the artefact for its marbling and “super beefy” flavor. So do I. One contempo appointment delivered 18 ounces of broken attenuate New York band steak with abandon of aureate absurd potatoes and a bloom tossed with a mustardy bathrobe — a accord of a meal for $27. Bear in mind, the presentation changes. Another night, cranberry beans tossed with anchovy adulate ability accomplish up a side.

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The accident of so abundant wine in the abounding basement gave Pastan an befalling to amend his offerings. “Drink Me” reads the awning of his new, all-Italian wine list. The restaurateur makes that easy, no amount your account or taste, with wines aggregate by price, starting with a $35 accumulating of added than a dozen reds and whites.

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And if there’s a argent lining in the misadventure, it’s new stemware and red wines served at 55 degrees, acknowledgment to new coolers downstairs.

“It’s nice to be aback again,” says Pastan.

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“Jinx!” say his abounding fans.

3715 Macomb St. NW. 202-885-5700. 2amyspizza.com. Pizzas, $9.45 to $15.45.

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