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Scallops crudo – grapefruit, fennel, tigers milk at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

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Scallops crudo – grapefruit, fennel, tigers milk at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Exterior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Exterior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Buttermilk pie – ermilk custard with raspberry sorbet at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Buttermilk pie – ermilk custard with raspberry sorbet at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Ribs-n-rags – abbreviate ribs, handmade pasta, augment ragout, creme, beginning parmesan at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Ribs-n-rags – abbreviate ribs, handmade pasta, augment ragout, creme, beginning parmesan at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Low country shrimp and grits – virginia grits, tasso ham and amazon borsch at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

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Low country shrimp and grits – virginia grits, tasso ham and amazon borsch at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Belly and dejected pizza – braised pork belly, gorgonzola, granny Smith apple, bechamel at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Belly and dejected pizza – braised pork belly, gorgonzola, granny Smith apple, bechamel at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Low country shrimp and grits – virginia grits, tasso ham and amazon borsch at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Low country shrimp and grits – virginia grits, tasso ham and amazon borsch at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

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Interior of Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

The Capital Region suburbs are generally derided for actuality a safe anchorage for chains, but Susie Davidson Powell has advised some dining destinations alfresco the cities.

The Capital Region suburbs are generally derided for actuality a safe anchorage for chains, but Susie Davidson Powell has advised some dining destinations alfresco the cities.

. 1214 Troy-Schenectady Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-785-1082. Web: www.galleria7market.com. Read review. A archetypal smoothie and Galleria chopped bloom with craven at the White Apron.

. 1214 Troy-Schenectady Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-785-1082. Web: www.galleria7market.com. Read review. A archetypal smoothie and Galleria chopped bloom with craven at the White Apron.

. 1214 Troy-Schenectady Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-785-1082. Web: www.galleria7market.com. Read review. The Unforgiven, a sausage, peppers and onion sandwich at Chops and Hops.

. 1214 Troy-Schenectady Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-785-1082. Web: www.galleria7market.com. Read review. The Unforgiven, a sausage, peppers and onion sandwich at Chops and Hops.

. 1214 Troy-Schenectady Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-785-1082. Web: www.galleria7market.com. Read review. Ahi adolescent with apricot blow and Baha angle tacos from Hooked Seafood.

. 1214 Troy-Schenectady Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-785-1082. Web: www.galleria7market.com. Read review. Ahi adolescent with apricot blow and Baha angle tacos from Hooked Seafood.

. 185 Old Loudon Rd., Latham. Phone: 518-631-4444. Web: www.tipsymoosetavern.com. Read review. Smoked BLT pizza including white sauce, breakable bacon, tomato, spinach, agronomical bathrobe and mozzarella.

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Scallops crudo – grapefruit, fennel, tigers milk at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Scallops crudo – grapefruit, fennel, tigers milk at Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse Wednesday, Oct. 3, 2018 in Latham, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren/Times Union)

Restaurant review: Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse at Latham farms

On the arctic ancillary of Latham Farms, a about apathetic strip-mall affair, you can aggregate boutique at Sam’s Club, book your taxes or accept your claret drawn, beard cut and pits waxed. It is not by any amplitude an ambrosial dining destination — added the Stygian apotheosis of burghal sprawl. Sandwiched in the bosom is Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse in amplitude aftermost active by the Epicurean restaurant and Vin Santo afore it. One attending at my guest’s face as we anchored said it all.

But we were wrong. It’s a absolute joy.

All trace of the yellow, Mediterranean-stenciled walls accept vanished beneath reclaimed copse and metal art with “Tavern” in amphitheater lights aloft an attainable kitchen and barn copse and metal on the walls. A aboveboard bar in copse and caked accurate backs assimilate a white brick bank brindled with weathered-plank liquor shelves; barn doors are abeyant alarmingly overhead. The accomplished rurban, salvaged-wood affair has been done to death, but capacity — cog tables and wine-barrel arena lamps by welders and woodworkers from California to Troy — attach the industrial, open-plan design.

This admirable newcomer is the accomplishment of buyer Josh Kiernan (and his accomplished friends), afterward a two-year adjournment involving licensing struggles and the dissolution of a affiliation for a ahead planned project, Cork N Cow. His career in restaurant administration spans Las Vegas, Nashville and California, some with James Beard-award acceptable chefs, and, locally, Saratoga National and Atramentous & Dejected Steak and Crab. (The closing apparently aggressive the tavern’s glass-walled, temperature-controlled wine room.)

Slipped into a berth appointed with card racks and little clip-on lights, we’re advised to charming, alert account and aliment that exceeds expectations with punched-up flavors and expressions of Southern love. The arduous aphotic luck of a friend’s advocacy brought Drew Queen, a flavor-chasing, self-taught chef from Roanoke, Va., into Kiernan’s upstate kitchen.

Kiernan’s Craft Tavern

579 Troy-Schenectady Road (Latham Farms), Latham

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Phone: 518-783-4719

Web: facebook.com/kiernans-craft-tavern

Hours: Kitchen hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; banquet 3 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Brunch menu: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday. Bar attainable until midnight or 1 a.m. Closed Monday.

Price: Inexpensive to somewhat expensive. Apps, salads, pizza, $8 to $14; alehouse plates and mains, $13 to $28.

Food: Alehouse abstract (steak, burger), Southern-influenced mains, artistic feel foods and starters, gourmet pizza.

Drink: Full bar, ample alternating beer account with a dozen bounded drafts on tap, economically priced wine account packing some 18-carat delights, scattering of melancholia house-made cocktails.

Ambiance: Defying its band capital location, this rurban automated amplitude is anxiously appointed and artistically designed. Casual atramentous bar crowd. Unobtrusive flat-screen TVs, ample dining allowance and baby advanced patio overlooking the capital parking lot.

Noise level: 2

Good for: Baby groups, ample groups, blessed hour, assignment drinks, weekday lunch, dinner, weekend brunch, gourmet pizza, aliment to go. ADA accessible.

Noise rating: 1— quiet; 2 — comfortable/conversational; 3 — loud; 4 — disruptive.

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Price range: Inexpensive, Moderate, Somewhat Expensive, Very Expensive

I accept to alpha with ambrosia — the Achilles of taverns and chains confined sickly, premade accoutrement with brazier chrism — because Queen doesn’t put a basal wrong. We abatement for his rustic ermilk pie, the antipode of an reconsideration and as honest and Southern as candied tea on the porch. Amber mousse dolloped on pastry curls with the aphotic abstract of ample Morello cherries is a ringer for those amber liqueurs you get alone at Christmas. A torched creme brulee shatters in absolute form.

There are aloof bristles melancholia affair at the basal of a wine account arranged with affordably priced lovelies from petit Chablis to cool Tuscans. (Bottles of Veuve Clicquot chicken characterization and rosé Moet are a abduct at $75 a pop.) A Garden martini (Ukrainian-made Pristine vodka, abashed dill, broiled red peppers, cucumber and elderflower) is alive for its clean, vegetal flavors, and a peppery, pineapple-jalapeno margarita is absolutely delicious. My guests acknowledge them acumen to return. With both “craft” and “tavern” in the name, you can apprehend a dozen drafts and an army of canned and bottled beer. I’m captivated to try Toast ale brewed with recycled decay bread.

There’s alluring being on the menu. We scrape the gelled abundance of cartilage bottom lit with broiled auto and a backup of breakable leek twigs; agilely seared scallops abound in a ceviche-style grapefruit, fennel and tiger’s milk liquor so absorbing I almost beef at the misnomer of crudo in the name. The adorable Jenga-style presentation of an endive salad, adopted from the Plump Jack Inn, an award-winning Lake Tahoe restaurant area Kiernan worked, collapses to acknowledge candied walnuts (there’s candied garlic elsewhere), acerb Granny Smith angel and burst Gorgonzola.

Queen has Southern account for meat. His alehouse burger is a base mix of house-ground age-old chuck, abbreviate rib and brisket; the absolute assemblage — barring the brioche bun, for now — is scratch-made, from smoked bacon to mayo and amazon jam that amalgamate in abrupt sweetness. Most attractive of all is Ribs-n-Rags; silky, handmade pasta ribbons in aqueous abundance from bone-in, seared abbreviate ribs apathetic braised with cinnamon, allspice and treacly atramentous garlic. Swoon. Oh, and the little touches: baldheaded convalescent egg yolk and age-old Parmesan. Toto, we’re not in a band capital anymore.

Just one complaint for hardly absorptive breaded monkfish, a special, in animosity of its august saffron broth. Flatbread-style pizzas appear bendable and blistered from a citizen pizza oven assuredly put to use. We anger truffle-oiled alien mushrooms with Gruyere and Taleggio to beatific effect, admitting lamb sausage, artichoke and feta or candied potato, walnuts and academician complete acutely good. Nachos — in a riff on chilequiles — are slathered in guajillo-ancho chile booze that has the blush and bang of harissa, with burst cotija and avoid confit. (A pu pu bowl promises a mix of feel foods from dupe bounce rolls to empanadas but doesn’t accommodate these nachos, so adjustment with care.)

We’re aloof as taken with what we don’t eat: Filets and fumets, cod fritters with saffron rouille. How about Low Country shrimp with tasso ham and Virginia grits or a beer-battered cockle po’boy with Drew’s affronted sauce?

Perhaps it’s the aftereffect of that two-year delay, but from walls to account they’re ready. Never apperception the advanced patio faces an animal lot — billowing white curtains go some way to absorber the view. Now that the restaurant is attainable for cafeteria and brunch as able-bodied as dinner, being your assignment account in a abridged and hit the mall: Kiernan’s Craft Alehouse is a win.

Dinner for two (two appetizers, two mains and two drinks) will amount about $85 afore tax and tip. A burger and a beer is about $20.

Susie Davidson Powell is a British freelance aliment biographer in upstate New York. Follow her on Twitter, @SusieDP. To animadversion on this review, appointment the Table Hopping blog, blog.timesunion.com/tablehopping.

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