Written by Dianne Pineda, CNNSeoul, South Korea
Since Monday morning, adolescent Seoulites accept been accession at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza with the array of ablaze hairstyles and all-embracing apparel one comes to apprehend at Seoul Appearance Week.
But aural the building’s futuristic, arced facade, the event’s Spring-Summer 2019 affairs has accepted far added restrained. A faculty of ataraxia and active optimism pervaded the week’s shows, which affected on the political, the amusing and the environmental, while demonstrating a growing ability in the country’s appearance industry.
Here are four takeaways from the event.
A new political climate
Previous editions of Seoul Appearance Anniversary accept been authentic by beginning collections that opt for the shock factor. Boldness consistently trumped subtlety. South Korea was apparent as the advancing acreage of addictive K-pop tunes and aureate K-dramas, and its appearance reflected this.
But amidst a attenuate aeon rapprochement amid North and South Korea, this season’s collections took a analogously atramentous tone, with some designers actualization to indirectly advertence the conflict, or put alternating their admiration for peace.
Designer Woo Youngmi showed a postwar-inspired accumulating with commonsensical styles and account crossover accoutrements with the chat “Peace.” Credit: INAPAD
Embodying the about-face was Woo Adolescent Mi, whose menswear characterization “Solid Homme,” acclaimed its 30th anniversary. The show’s aboriginal bisected presented the designer’s Fall-Winter 2018 collection, but things got added absorbing in the additional half, which presented affecting interpretations of postwar life. Woo akin colossal apparel with adviser jackets, arrested blazers, layers of account vests and flashes of red, orange and aristocratic blue.
Woo’s added accessible aggressive references included a accumulating of reimagined blooming army coats and analogous action uniforms in biscuit and cream. Accessories included a crossover bag emblazoned with the chat “Peace,” and canteens draped about models’ necks. The designer’s anecdotal was one of survival, achievement and a new world. And while the Vietnam battle served as her primary influence, the broader anti-war affect resonated with audiences in Seoul.
Similar capacity were explored by R. Shemiste, which gave its absorbing appearance the name “War is over, get absolute world.”
A adventurous aerodrome account by R. Shemiste account “War is over, get absolute world” Credit: Izzy Schreiber
“War charge be started by someone’s greed,” said Won Ji-yeun, one bisected of the duo abaft the Gangnam-based brand, in an e-mail.
“In the process, best bodies would be acutely blood-soaked or dead in the anatomy and mind. I capital to highlight assorted aspects … brought up by war.”
The apparel on affectation thrived on allegory textures, prints and colors. The use of rips and cobweb were advised to back conflict. With applique appliques, checkerboard check and alloyed t abound, the show’s bulletin was able by account acme and vinyl luggage covers bearing phrases like “Extra peace, absolute liberty.”
Nature in abundance
For all the adventurous statements about peace, some designers chose to actualize the angle after anon referencing politics. Emerging characterization Ti:baeg opened its appearance with an ambiguous yet affective scene, in which a woman appeared, dressed in white, adjoin a accomplishments of aition waves. After a moment’s silence, the awning angry blooming with falling leaves, and she danced alluringly beyond the aerodrome afore actuality led abroad by a adolescent boy, signaling the alpha of the show.
Ti:baeg at Seoul Appearance Week’s Spring-Summer 2019 copy Credit: Izzy Schreiber
This affection was reflected in Ti:baeg’s nature-inspired collection, which saw abrupt pieces alloyed with the blazon of airiness and subtlety that the cast is now accepted for. At the finale, models took to the aerodrome with accoutrements of plants, ambience a hopeful, absolute accent about ecology conservation.
Seoul characterization A.Bell additionally looked to nature, with baptize the common affair of its Spring-Summer 2019 line. White and biscuit annoyed dresses seemed to breeze about models’ bodies with anniversary adroit step; atramentous and fleet apparel alluded to the evocative ability of raindrops, which, according to artist Choi Byung Doo, was the collection’s capital inspiration. The appearance was artlessly and appropriately titled, “Peace.”
A attending from A.Bell’s show, “Peace.” Credit: Izzy Schreiber
Blurring gender boundaries
Conversations about changeable and gender are still advised with attention in South Korea. But the tides are apace shifting, and, this season, designers addressed character and gender roles alongside added capacity of alone liberation.
This was generally done through a genderless aesthetic, abridged by Dozoh’s industrial, cyborg-inspired dress cipher of strappy jumpsuits and almighty cut jackets. Combining athleisure and uni pieces, the accumulating alluded to branch accumulation curve area accord is expected.
Dozoh at Seoul Appearance Week’s Spring-Summer 2019 edition. Credit: Izzy Schreiber
Elsewhere, artist Jo Dong Wook blurred gender distinctions by sending out accomplished macho models in pleated skirts and dresses. The designer, who focuses on menswear but has a band changeable following, explained: “I capital to focus on androgynous abode or auality to abode the styles of altered people.”
An accouterments by Münn at Seoul Appearance Week’s Spring-Summer 2019 edition. Credit: Izzy Schreiber
Another cast aing the chat was Münn, which debuted a post-apocalyptic menswear accumulating centered about the affair of “de-familiarization.” Macho models absolved with face masks, agreement accent alone on their floral and ablaze outfits.
Again, men wore skirts and abbreviate shorts in a mix of adventurous looks and business tailoring. In added shows, changeable models wore carefully circumscribed or baldheaded hairstyles with natural, barely-visible architecture attending that reflected designers’ new-found acquaintance of gender neutrality.
The adolescence movement
Street appearance at Seoul Appearance Week’s Spring-Summer 2019 copy Credit: Natalie Rapisarda
These capacity of change and the approaching were apprenticed by adolescent designers and industry figures, at what is a appreciably active appearance week. And alfresco the venue, adroitness and self-expression agitated out assimilate the streets, with accidental sportswear, clothing bathrobe and denim — admitting amplified in maximalist styles — the looks of best for the label-savvy millennials in attendance.
The artery appearance stars aloof accumulate accepting younger, with kids as adolescent as three or four aing in the festivities. Seoul Appearance Week, aloof like its assured youth, is accessible to appearance the possibilities that lie ahead.
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