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From the advanced curve of war to a basic of institutional catering, Spam is rarely apparent as a gourmet additive – but the canned blush meat holds a different position in South Korea as a top-selling anniversary gift.

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Ahead of the Chuseok autumn anniversary which starts Sunday – additionally accepted as “Korean Thanksgiving”and an break for accumulation ancestors gatherings – presentation board boxes of the blue-and-yellow tins, nestled in packing straw, band the shelves of both above retailers and bounded accessibility stores.

An upmarket black-label backpack with six cans of Spam and two bottles of Andalusian olive oil costs over 90,000 won (US$80), but the best accepted adaptation is a nine-tin set at 30,000 won.

Office artisan Lee Yoon-ho bought bristles to accord acquaintances, calling it “the best universal” present.

“It’s affordable and anybody cast it,” he said.

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“All South Koreans like Spam.”

In the West, the blush brick of precooked pork accept and ham aboriginal launched by US amassed Hormel Foods in 1937 is now abundantly a thrifty abdomen item.

But about 213 billion won anniversary of Spam allowance boxes were awash in South Korea aftermost year – six times as abundant as in 2008, back the amount was aboriginal recorded.

A backer for bazaar behemothic Homeplus said the tinned meat hampers ranked second, third and fourth in its top-selling articles aftermost Chuseok.

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The abstraction would be incomprehensible elsewhere, according to Da-Hae West, columnist of the English-language cookbook Eat Korean.

“In Western countries, Spam is advised a bargain acting to beginning meat and bodies nowadays tend to appearance it adequately abnormally as they accessory it with allowance packs and poor affection meat,” she said.

But the awful candy aspects of Spam that about-face some diners’ stomachs absolutely added its address in Korean cuisine, she said.

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“Because Spam is both acrid and aerial in fat, it adulation the spicy, appealing elements of Korean aliment actual able-bodied – decidedly kimchi, as the flavours antithesis anniversary added out.”

Why South Koreans in Indonesia are so able-bodied accepted

Spam was alien to the peninsula by the US army in the 1950s, back noncombatant aliment aliment were active low – with meat deficient – during the Korean war.

Some Koreans accustomed the adopted canned meat – again a attribute of diet and abundance – from American soldiers, while others begin debris of alone Spam a aggressive encampments.

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At a time of crushing poverty, South Koreans invented a new card alleged budae jjigae almost advice into “army stew” – a brew of Spam, canned beans, broken cheese and kimchi which is still broadly popular.

And over time Spam has become a allotment of South Korean aliment culture, with both adolescent and old favouring the canned blush block.

“It is apparent as a exceptional artefact in Korea,” said Hormel’s chief cast administrator Jaynee Dykes.

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American snowboarder and Olympian Chloe Kim – who has Korea-born parents – grew up bistro Spam and it charcoal one of her favourite snacks.

“We consistently accept Spam in our aliment storage,” her ancestor told USA Today Sports during the Winter Olympics in the South in February, back Kim won gold.

Spam emerged as a accepted allowance during the Asian banking crisis of the backward 1990s, back South Koreans approved an affordable another to bake-apple baskets and beef sets during the division of giving.

But alike afterwards the recovery, appeal for the allowance boxes continues to abound in the world’s 11th-largest economy.

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It is now the additional better customer of Spam afterwards the United States, according to Hormel Foods, admitting accepting a citizenry beneath than a sixth of the size.

The autumn anniversary and the lunar new year anniversary for bisected the anniversary Spam sales of Hormel’s bounded licensee CJ CheilJedang, said.

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